- Location
- Australia
My laptops slow and old and cheep. It might last another four years but given the projected spike in tech prices for those of us living in America that's not exactly something to bet on. So uhhhh yeah.
If your laptop has an old HDD (mechanical drive), consider asking a couple of tech shops for a quote to upgrade to a SSD (solid state drive). A lot of old laptops can get a fresh lease on life just by switching that one component (e.g. boot times going from minutes to seconds). If a shop suggests a SSD under 256GB or one with a manufacturer warranty under five years, clue-by-four them or find a different shop. If your laptop has less than 8GB of RAM, ask them if they can upgrade that too - RAM is quite cheap these days.
First rule of backups: make sure you have them. Second rule of backups: have two, e.g. an external drive and a second drive/NAS/dropbox/onedrive/whatever.
Regardless of whether you upgrade or replace the laptop, consider a simple USB external drive that's at least 3x the size of your laptop's capacity (edit: or just of its used space, if that's reasonably consistent). Based on personal experience, Toshiba is good, WD is tolerable and Seagate... nope.
If you're using Apple those have Time Machine, if you're using Windows or Linux then Veeam Agent is free for individual use and almost as easy to use (register, download, install, add a job, go with the defaults or monthly fulls, remember to plug the drive in every so often to do its job).
Regardless of whether you upgrade or replace the laptop, consider a simple USB external drive that's at least 3x the size of your laptop's capacity (edit: or just of its used space, if that's reasonably consistent). Based on personal experience, Toshiba is good, WD is tolerable and Seagate... nope.
If you're using Apple those have Time Machine, if you're using Windows or Linux then Veeam Agent is free for individual use and almost as easy to use (register, download, install, add a job, go with the defaults or monthly fulls, remember to plug the drive in every so often to do its job).
I really only use my laptop for writing at this point so I don't need high end. So yeah basics, is an apple actual worth the extra money compared to hp? Is buying the cheapest of either a no go for any reason?
On the plus side, their software security is good. On the negative side, their modern kit is priced at a premium and really pushing the "sealed unit" concept; if any part of it breaks, chances are you (or even your local tech buddy) ain't doing any repairs on it unless willing to mess around with glue guns and/or solder. And even then the parts might refuse to work just because you didn't pay an authorised Apple dealer to do it.
IMO if you want to show off how amazingly awesomely ultra-svelte your laptop is Apple's great at that, otherwise go PC.
IMO if you want to show off how amazingly awesomely ultra-svelte your laptop is Apple's great at that, otherwise go PC.
The bottom of the range is where they cut all the corners, especially in the consumer market.
Look at the lower end of the mid-range business laptops instead. If you find a nice one, check online to see how repairable it is. Good business laptops are designed to be easily repaired. Also, in Australia you can often buy refurbished ex-biz/gov Windows Pro machines with a warranty for maybe a third of new - see if that's something you can do in your part of the USA?
Look at the lower end of the mid-range business laptops instead. If you find a nice one, check online to see how repairable it is. Good business laptops are designed to be easily repaired. Also, in Australia you can often buy refurbished ex-biz/gov Windows Pro machines with a warranty for maybe a third of new - see if that's something you can do in your part of the USA?
You're only using it for writing and browsing, not FPS/RTS gaming, so... my two cents:
CPU: Intel i3 or AMD Ryzen3 is fine, i5 or Ryzen5 is sweet, anything more is overkill (and likely a battery hog).
RAM: 8GB is fine (yes even on Windows 11 once you kill the bloat) but 16GB is nice. If you're the type of person like me who tends to have a bazillion apps/tabs open, you'd probably prefer 16GB.
Internal Storage: a 256GB SSD is tolerable, 512GB SSD is fine. Don't get a laptop that only has a HDD (if they even still sell those in your neck of the woods). Just... more and more laptops nowadays use M.2 NVMe chips instead of SATA, and unfortunately a lot of laptops wouldn't know good heat management even if it hit them with the heavy flamer.
Graphics: If you're not a gamer, doing 3D work or similar? Integrated capable of FHD (1080p) is fine, a discrete gaming GPU just means more bits that can break.
Screen: in my opinion 15.6" is kind of the sweet spot for laptop screens, but YMMV and you may or may not prefer to have a smaller screen/laptop (e.g. 13.3") and hook up an external monitor or TV when you need it. Whatever you get, make sure its resolution is 1080p FHD or better; there are still some laptops out there with 768p HD screens. There's also the type of panel used in the screen; TN is thecrap tolerable stuff and IPS is (currently) the good stuff, though there's other kinds inbetween.
Form factor: I loathe "ultra-slim" (and similar such buzzwords), give me something thicc that I can open up and service myself, but that's personal preference. YMMV.
CPU: Intel i3 or AMD Ryzen3 is fine, i5 or Ryzen5 is sweet, anything more is overkill (and likely a battery hog).
RAM: 8GB is fine (yes even on Windows 11 once you kill the bloat) but 16GB is nice. If you're the type of person like me who tends to have a bazillion apps/tabs open, you'd probably prefer 16GB.
Internal Storage: a 256GB SSD is tolerable, 512GB SSD is fine. Don't get a laptop that only has a HDD (if they even still sell those in your neck of the woods). Just... more and more laptops nowadays use M.2 NVMe chips instead of SATA, and unfortunately a lot of laptops wouldn't know good heat management even if it hit them with the heavy flamer.
Graphics: If you're not a gamer, doing 3D work or similar? Integrated capable of FHD (1080p) is fine, a discrete gaming GPU just means more bits that can break.
Screen: in my opinion 15.6" is kind of the sweet spot for laptop screens, but YMMV and you may or may not prefer to have a smaller screen/laptop (e.g. 13.3") and hook up an external monitor or TV when you need it. Whatever you get, make sure its resolution is 1080p FHD or better; there are still some laptops out there with 768p HD screens. There's also the type of panel used in the screen; TN is the
Form factor: I loathe "ultra-slim" (and similar such buzzwords), give me something thicc that I can open up and service myself, but that's personal preference. YMMV.
Is there a decent antivirus company that exists? Like, life lock makes me feel like I have some security, though who really knows. But Norton slows my computer down then tries to extort me for another hundred something dollars a year for a program that will clear out junk and make it run faster.
It depends a lot on how you define "decent". Um. Okay. If you want 'free', Windows Defender is actually surprisingly decent (not great, but... good and certainly better than a lot of crap out there that only exists to suck your wallet dry). If you want paid, there's brands like ESET, Bitdefender and Malwarebytes?
Either way, you absolutely should be pairing whatever flavour of AV you choose with a dedicated ad-blocker (such as uBlock Origin). The online ad industry is a tentacled monster of the un-fun kind with no sense of hygeine.
Norton Lifelock: personally I'd erase Norton's AV products in a heartbeat if I got a computer with any, but I'm not familiar with their ID protection offerings (also I live in a country with relatively decent legal protections). So I can only suggest doing a search for reviews of identity theft protection tools, see if you can find one that doesn't need to be bundled with AV or at least comes with a good one. Pretty sure the above brands I mentioned all offer some flavour of it.
Oh, that reminds me, password managers. KeePassXC (local) and Bitwarden (cloud) are about the only ones I'd recommend, as neither will lock you into a proprietary format nor require bundling, both start at free and both support TOTP authentication (former for free and latter for USD10/year).
Finally, if you need a VPN then I'd recommend a dedicated VPN provider rather than using anything from a kitchen sink AV bundle. The former might actually know what they're doing.
Either way, you absolutely should be pairing whatever flavour of AV you choose with a dedicated ad-blocker (such as uBlock Origin). The online ad industry is a tentacled monster of the un-fun kind with no sense of hygeine.
Norton Lifelock: personally I'd erase Norton's AV products in a heartbeat if I got a computer with any, but I'm not familiar with their ID protection offerings (also I live in a country with relatively decent legal protections). So I can only suggest doing a search for reviews of identity theft protection tools, see if you can find one that doesn't need to be bundled with AV or at least comes with a good one. Pretty sure the above brands I mentioned all offer some flavour of it.
Oh, that reminds me, password managers. KeePassXC (local) and Bitwarden (cloud) are about the only ones I'd recommend, as neither will lock you into a proprietary format nor require bundling, both start at free and both support TOTP authentication (former for free and latter for USD10/year).
Finally, if you need a VPN then I'd recommend a dedicated VPN provider rather than using anything from a kitchen sink AV bundle. The former might actually know what they're doing.
Thankyou for the writing!
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