Remove ads

TECHNICAL HELP HERE

After some time with my new mainboard, I have to say that it looks like I was wrong. I thought the problem was eiter the PSU or the mainboard. However, since the PC now starts up everytime without fail after a shutdown, but I still have to unplug the cord for a bit after a long-ish time in energy savings mode, it now looks like it was both 😅

So, its not ideal, but better and I can use my Xbox controller wirelessly now, so all in all a victory, if not a total one.
 
Carrington said:
After some time with my new mainboard, I have to say that it looks like I was wrong. I thought the problem was eiter the PSU or the mainboard. However, since the PC now starts up everytime without fail after a shutdown, but I still have to unplug the cord for a bit after a long-ish time in energy savings mode, it now looks like it was both 😅

So, its not ideal, but better and I can use my Xbox controller wirelessly now, so all in all a victory, if not a total one.
Click to expand...
Click to shrink...
This reminds me a bit of a problem I had with my desktop several years ago.

Similarly to yours, there were a lot of glitches. Bluetooth in particular completely refused to work, it often failed to resume from suspend, and so on.

I replaced the PSU, motherboard and processor. Each of those helped; none fixed it completely, and the problem eventually came back…

It turns out that the problem was the power supply. Not the PSU, but the electrical supply from the wall, which shared a circuit with the very noisy freezer and washing machine.

I installed a double conversion UPS, and it went away… mostly. The computer had been damaged, and it didn't fully recover until my next motherboard/cpu upgrade.
 
Baughn said:
This reminds me a bit of a problem I had with my desktop several years ago.

Similarly to yours, there were a lot of glitches. Bluetooth in particular completely refused to work, it often failed to resume from suspend, and so on.

I replaced the PSU, motherboard and processor. Each of those helped; none fixed it completely, and the problem eventually came back…

It turns out that the problem was the power supply. Not the PSU, but the electrical supply from the wall, which shared a circuit with the very noisy freezer and washing machine.

I installed a double conversion UPS, and it went away… mostly. The computer had been damaged, and it didn't fully recover until my next motherboard/cpu upgrade.
Click to expand...
Click to shrink...
Well, suddenly I've got another reason to finish rennovating my grandparents flat and to move completely in. I mean, it's still the same house, but at least I won't have to run everything from multiple daisy chained power strips, since the only free outlet is halfway across the room 😅

Anyway, I hope it's just the PSU that's borked. The plan now is to get a replacement PSU for Christmas, though this time going with the 1000W instead of the 850W variant, and then RMA the old one and either get the money back or use the replacment to build a PC for my mother.
 
Someone confirm my suspicions,

The audio/bass that comes out from my soundbar sounds shallower when I use the Aux connection compared connecting to my computer using Bluetooth.

I suspect it's due to the analog ALC233 codec my motherboard is running vs the AX200 card the computer uses for Bluetooth with the SBC-XQ codec.
 
Last edited:
Sometimes I swear there is lower quality using the AUX instead of the main sound out connection. Have you tried using the main sound out (green) instead of aux (blue)?
 
Last edited:
SlickRCBD said:
Sometimes I swear there is lower quality using the AUX instead of the main sound out connection. Have you tried using the main sound out (green) instead of aux (blue)?
Click to expand...
Click to shrink...
I'm using the headphone jack as that's the only output jack for this computer.

It might also be the cable as this is an older cable I'm using.
 
That could be it too, I know I had an issue with an old Radio Shack extension cable that just wore out.
However the sound out ports shouldn't be lower quality than the BlueTooth unless there is something physically wrong or a case of the headphone jack using the built-in and the Bluetooth being part of a sound card, and usually things would be the other way around, although I could be dating myself. I haven't looked at sound cards for anything made in the last 5 years, although technically last year I was looking for a sound card...for my Win98SE/XP computer for playing old games that don't work with Win10 and the integrated sound hardware somehow broke and was giving lots of annoying static. Wound up just grabbing one from a decommissioned Win95 computer somebody else had in their basement.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, I was cued in when I noticed that the soundbar was emmiting less bass when connected to aux vs Bluetooth on the same computer

So I suspected some loss due to the analog audio codec and over the wire

Or the that DAC on the soundbar favours heavier bass compared to the sound driver on the MB
 
Last edited:
FailLord said:
Yeah, I was cued in when I noticed that the soundbar was emmiting less bass when connected to aux vs Bluetooth on the same computer

So I suspected some loss due to the analog audio codec and over the wire

Or the that DAC on the soundbar favours heavier bass compared to the sound driver on the MB
Click to expand...
Click to shrink...
It's also possible that the controls for bass have different settings when connected via different methods, especially if you adjusted the bass control on one but not the other. I know that the controls can change and remember different settings when I plug in a pair of headphones on an old laptop I use as a portable DVD player instead of using the built-in speaker and that was with WinXP.
 
A single output port can behave differently in software. For example, if you have a headphone/speaker port it may either do diffferent things or have different defaults depending on if the software is set to "speaker" or "headphone"; look for an audio driver program, I've personally seen SoundMAX and similar. They sometimes pop up a notice "What did you just plug in?" and can get reset by driver updates.
 
Wait, are we talking about a line-in port on the sound bar and a headphone port on the computer?

Those aren't the same thing. They have different impedances, which I could imagine affecting things.
 
Serow said:
A single output port can behave differently in software. For example, if you have a headphone/speaker port it may either do diffferent things or have different defaults depending on if the software is set to "speaker" or "headphone"; look for an audio driver program, I've personally seen SoundMAX and similar. They sometimes pop up a notice "What did you just plug in?" and can get reset by driver updates.
Click to expand...
Click to shrink...
Exactly, the laptop I mentioned does that, although I didn't remember the resets since there haven't been any updates in well over a decade.
 
My volume keeps randomly going up, and I'm pretty sure it's on my headphones since it doesn't do it when they aren't connected. Help?
 
Voikirium said:
My volume keeps randomly going up, and I'm pretty sure it's on my headphones since it doesn't do it when they aren't connected. Help?
Click to expand...
Click to shrink...
Don't connect those headphones. If you can solder and you absolutely want to keep them, then you can chop off the 3.5mm connector and replace with one that has just two connectors, instead of what I assume is a four-wire one.

Either way the volume button on your headphones is glitching, so you need to make it stop.

I'd you don't have one… well, that gets interesting. I'd probably buy new headphones.
 
Baughn said:
Don't connect those headphones. If you can solder and you absolutely want to keep them, then you can chop off the 3.5mm connector and replace with one that has just two connectors, instead of what I assume is a four-wire one.

Either way the volume button on your headphones is glitching, so you need to make it stop.

I'd you don't have one… well, that gets interesting. I'd probably buy new headphones.
Click to expand...
Click to shrink...
So uh, they're bluetooth and not wired but I've got this sinking feeling that doesn't really change much.

It's probably a good thing I got those spares.
 
This is why it's important to give us information on what type of headphones they are and what model as well as what type of device you are connecting them to and what OS it is running. We have to make wild guesses on what you are using when you just post a vague statement about "my headphones" with no details.
Do the headphones have some kind of on-board volume control such as a volume up/down button/knob/slider? That could be malfunctioning just from wear.
RTFM and see if there is a documented way to adjust the volume from the headphones. Many do have it, sometimes a simple resistor on the old-fashioned 3.5mm ones, sometimes a sophisticated digital volume control.
Since it's a bluetooth, presumably there is some kind of volume control on the headphones that is damaged/worn and malfunctioning.
Short of trying to repair the control, there isn't much I can suggest.
If it was wired, it could be possible the plug itself was dirty and you needed to clean it with non-acetone nail polish remover to get the grime off that is causing misfired signals, or possibly blow out the jack or even power down the device and clean the jack with the acetone (then let it dry overnight), but since it's BlueTooth the most likely culprit is a malfunctioning volume control.
It's POSSIBLE there is a driver problem as well.
A way to test is with another headphone device connected to the same device.
 
Last edited:
SlickRCBD said:
This is why it's important to give us information on what type of headphones they are and what model as well as what type of device you are connecting them to and what OS it is running. We have to make wild guesses on what you are using when you just post a vague statement about "my headphones" with no details.
Do the headphones have some kind of on-board volume control such as a volume up/down button/knob/slider? That could be malfunctioning just from wear.
RTFM and see if there is a documented way to adjust the volume from the headphones. Many do have it, sometimes a simple resistor on the old-fashioned 3.5mm ones, sometimes a sophisticated digital volume control.
Since it's a bluetooth, presumably there is some kind of volume control on the headphones that is damaged/worn and malfunctioning.
Short of trying to repair the control, there isn't much I can suggest.
If it was wired, it could be possible the plug itself was dirty and you needed to clean it with non-acetone nail polish remover to get the grime off that is causing misfired signals, or possibly blow out the jack or even power down the device and clean the jack with the acetone (then let it dry overnight), but since it's BlueTooth the most likely culprit is a malfunctioning volume control.
It's POSSIBLE there is a driver problem as well.
A way to test is with another headphone device connected to the same device.
Click to expand...
Click to shrink...
Model is JBL Tune 510BT: Wireless On-Ear Headphones with Purebass Sound - Black, I haven't managed to locate the manual is the biggest issue. There is a physical volume control button on them, yes, I suspect it got damaged after I dropped it.
 
Does anyone know what the easier to install version of Linux is?
Trying to learn the basic commands of Linux and I think best if I can do "Hands on" to do so,
I have a number of older computers I can use to install onto.
 
Kitsune said:
Do you have any of the three you most recommend?
Click to expand...
Click to shrink...
Ubuntu if you're from Mac and mint if you're from windows.

It will make the default user interface feel the most familiar. You're learning a bunch of new stuff already, no need to make it harder. And both are very similar under the hood, making it easy to search online in case of questions.
 
I am studying for A+ Core 2. I passed Core 1.

I have the advantage with Core 2 where I can try to do many of the things listed under objectives while harder to do with Core 1.
Core 2 is software based while Core 1 is hardware based.
There are Mac commands I need to learn as well but my roommate has a Mac laptop a couple of versions of MacOS back or so.
 
Last edited:
Kitsune said:
I am studying for A+ Core 2. I passed Core 1.

I have the advantage with Core 2 where I can try to do many of the things listed under objectives while harder to do with Core 1.
Core 2 is software based while Core 1 is hardware based.
There are Mac commands I need to learn as well but my roommate has a Mac laptop a couple of versions of MacOS back or so.
Click to expand...
Click to shrink...
I honestly do not recall a Mac section of the A+, but I just realized that it's been over 20 years since I took the A+ exam in 2002 and am grandfathered in to having a lifetime certification. I'm going to have to check out a book from the library (or e-book) and skim it to see what they are teaching these days.
I know they used to base the Linux section off of Red Hat Linux, which became Fedora in the mid 2000's when they wanted to make Red Hat the paid support corporate version. I don't know if that has changed to a different Linux flavor.
I'd imagine if they have Linux on the test, you should know both GNO/ME and KDE X-Window managers, but I haven't kept up in the last decade.
 
Last edited:
Kitsune said:
Do you have any of the three you most recommend?
Click to expand...
Click to shrink...
Linux Mint of those three.

I also nominate Pop!OS if you're into gaming (it's Ubuntu derived, but Ubuntu has a lot of complaints from myself and some of my other linux friends, whereas Pop! has had nothing but rave reviews in my circle)

My other personal recommendation is Debian (with the KDE Plasma desktop GUI installed during the installation process - it's available in most installation media already) if you want to start from scratch and are comfortable installing things as-you-need-them, but I'm pretty biased in that regard.

Lastly, honorary mention to Arch Linux, as that's what the SteamDeck runs, but I don't recommend it as a first-timer's OS. It's not as bad as they say it is , but it's definitely more difficult than installing Pop!OS, Mint, Ubuntu, or Debian.

(I've had fewer issues with Arch than Debian and Ubuntu, I'm posting from an Arch machine, and I like it over everything else I've tried, but I'm also a more experienced Linux user at this point too)
-
Also, it needs to be said that you pick your desktop environment's look during the installation process and you don't need Ubuntu to look like Mac or Mint to look like Windows. I've made Debian look like both of them at one point, and it just boiled down to installing the desktop environment I wanted.

If you want the Windows feeling, KDE (or KDE Plasma, whatever) is a good desktop environment to pick during install. Feels a lot like Windows 7 but better panel support IMHO.

If you like the MacOS look, then I recommend GNOME instead for your desktop environment, as it looks and feels a lot like MacOS's UI.

I personally use KDE but which desktop environment you use is a matter of taste - there's a lot of them and you should give them a look.
 
Last edited:
You must login or register to reply here.
Remove ads
Back
Top