I have never used a liquid cooler. I am afraid I will fuck something up and it will leak on motherboard, CPU, power supply, video card, etc. I have read that modern tower air coolers are pretty damn good though.
It's fairly straightforward to use them safely. Let me see...
  • If it's an AIO cooler, you're good. That will only leak if it's damaged.
  • If it's a custom loop (= you build it from parts), then you're good regardless so long as you use flexible tubing, don't strain it, and avoid push fittings—only ever use screw fittings. (Push fittings last for years, then slip off. Screw fittings have a far more reliable grip.)
  • If you're still concerned, you can get one of these. I did; they work.
That being said, there's just not very much reason to water-cool your computer these days unless you want it to be super quiet, and/or need to put more than one GPU in it.

Or you're planning to push the tubes through a wall and put the radiator(s) in another room, I suppose.
 
If it's a custom loop (= you build it from parts), then you're good regardless so long as you use flexible tubing, don't strain it, and avoid push fittings—only ever use screw fittings. (Push fittings last for years, then slip off. Screw fittings have a far more reliable grip.)
From personal experience: Only ever use fittings meant to go with the tubing you're using. There's minor differences which can result in extremely loose tubing retention. I've actually had a tube slip out of a tightened screw fitting because I bought a hodgepodge of what was cheapest.

I did learn my lesson from that - all of my exterior tubes are tightened down on the fittings with quality hose clamps. They are not going to come off.
 
I do not know how available they are in Italy but the Peerless Assassin rate up near the Noctua while often far cheaper.
I wanted to say, that even if other coolers are near in performance, Noctua might be preferable thanks to its mounting hardware. But looking at the video you've posted later, the Thermalright basically uses the same technique and hardware that Noctua uses.

A couple of years ago, I helped a friend build his computer and we specced it with a BeQuiet! cooler that had similar performance, but was a bit cheaper than the Noctua. And trying to mount that thing convinced me that I would always go with Noctua from now on, even if it costs ten-ish bucks more. So, it's good (well, not so good for Noctua) to see that others have started using the same mounting mechanism. Though Noctua might still have the longevity advantage, since they will send you new mounting hardware free of charge if you switch to a new socket that doesn't work with your mounting hardware. Not sure, how Thermalright handles that.
 
I wanted to say, that even if other coolers are near in performance, Noctua might be preferable thanks to its mounting hardware. But looking at the video you've posted later, the Thermalright basically uses the same technique and hardware that Noctua uses.

A couple of years ago, I helped a friend build his computer and we specced it with a BeQuiet! cooler that had similar performance, but was a bit cheaper than the Noctua. And trying to mount that thing convinced me that I would always go with Noctua from now on, even if it costs ten-ish bucks more. So, it's good (well, not so good for Noctua) to see that others have started using the same mounting mechanism. Though Noctua might still have the longevity advantage, since they will send you new mounting hardware free of charge if you switch to a new socket that doesn't work with your mounting hardware. Not sure, how Thermalright handles that.

For me, the Thermalright was something like $45 USD while the Noctua was something like $80 USD to $85 USD.
Have had it for almost a year now.
 
I only need one look at the glass behemoth to know that it has zero airflow and as such, should never be bought.
The KZ21 is better, but the front is also fairly bad for airflow and ugly as fuck. Even without fans, the price point has me fairly dubious regarding the overall quality of the case.

If you want a good looking case that's decent quality, has airflow and doesn't break the bank, I suggest taking a look at the Fractal Design North.
 
That's definitely not the case I'd have picked for myself, but it should certainly be capable of sufficient airflow and optics are very much in the eye of the beholder.
 
That's definitely not the case I'd have picked for myself, but it should certainly be capable of sufficient airflow and optics are very much in the eye of the beholder.
In terms of practicality, for £70 it comes with the fans, fan controller, all the airflow filtered, glass sideplate and a well laid out build space, so it nails all the main points I was going for to swap my currently X470/Ryzen 5600/6950XT based rig into, given the current case is a decade old with pretty shit airflow.
 
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Kind of combined computers and tech woes. These may not be in order and come events are slightly simplified and still going to be quite long. Want to write this down though before I forget, maybe as lessons for others.

I recently built a Ryzen 5 2600 system for a roommate out of used components and was something of a nightmare. I like using used components because they reduce E-Waste.

First issue was that the motherboard came with none of the hardware. No back plate to mount the CPU and missing the hardware to mount the M.2 SSD. It is also missing the I/O shield but could accept that at least. Seller should have made it clear that those items are missing. Ended up order the items from Amazon, luckily they have them. Would have been better just to buy a new motherboard though based on cost.

Second issue was that the CPU had three bent pins. I might have done that in removing the CPU and putting it back in but also could have been before I got it. It took a nerve wracking 30 minutes or so to slowly tease the pins back into place so I could seat the CPU safely.

Third issue is that I ordered a GTX 1070. It is actually pretty good as an older graphic card. Got lost in shipping via UPS. Someone on Facebook marketplace had a GTX 1060 and thought I was going to be able to get that but he canceled at the last minute. Ordered a second GTX 1070 from a different seller, actually a little cheaper, but will not arrive until Monday if it gets to me on time.

Decided to make sure the computer would boot. The monitor I want to use is plugged into a test computer using an HDMI cable. My other roommate has a really old graphic card which I tried to use to see if it would boot into bios. I had to try to adapt DVI from the graphic card into Display Port on the Monitor. I was getting no ramp down on the CPU fan and no picture. Don't know at this stage if I have a problem with the CPU, motherboard, ram, or graphic card.

I have an old HD 7850 graphic that worked the last time I used it but not been used in years. Did not use it at first because of its size, even though newer than the one from my roommate's that I had been trying to use. It is large though and it is a very small case I am working with. It does have an HDMI port however. I do go ahead and install it however. At first similar issue but then my roommate asks if I plugged in power to the graphic card. I had not and it booted. I was trying with one stick of ram but then put two in and it booted to bios.

We also have an old GTX 750. Does not require anything beyond motherboard power and is a much smaller card. Got it in and booted to bios. Issue was CPU fan error which i found out a cable had blocked the fan. That was remedied. My plan is to use cable ties to mount wires when I get the graphic card in.

my roommate wants Windows 11, which requires a TPM module and UEFI Bios mode. When I built using the B550 board, had no issues with that. Was able to install Windows 11 without any issues. This one (B450 board) kept throwing me a message that Windows 11 is not supported. Tried changes in bios that I saw on YouTube and then updated the bios to the latest version, neither worked. Installed Windows 10 because I wanted to see if at least get an OS installed. That actually worked.

Looking through system information, Bios mode was "Legacy" while my main computer is on UEFI mode. Able to change that in bios and ended up with a booting feedback look where it would keep going back into bios. Switch back to legacy and will go into Windows 10. Finally keep UEFI but had the USB drive with Windows 11 in it with the USB first boot priority. Finally was able to get Windows 11 to install.
 
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Looking through system information, Bios mode was "Legacy" while my main computer is on UEFI mode. Able to change that in bios and ended up with a booting feedback look where it would keep going back into bios.
You can't swap from legacy to UEFI (or vice versa) without reinstalling the OS. It probably was throwing you into BIOS because as far as it was concerned there was no OS on it.
 
You can't swap from legacy to UEFI (or vice versa) without reinstalling the OS. It probably was throwing you into BIOS because as far as it was concerned there was no OS on it.

Kind of ironic to bring that up. I figured it was something like that.

My other roommate, who is currently using an FX 6300, bought a Rzyen 7 5800x3d, I believe the X570 motherboard, and all the other components you need to build a new computer. Using their old graphic card. I told them that a B550 board would be fine and could save them some money but did not want to go that way. They are using an RX 480 8 GB card. For the extra cost of the X570 vs a B550, I think I could get a nice used RX 5700 xt.

They play a lot of Elder Scrolls online and are afraid they will not be able to migrate everything with a new OS install. They want me to clone their SSD to the M.2. I am not sure how the OS will do when much of the hardware changes and that I don't think that will allow them to run Windows 11 if I can clone the SSSD to the M.2. Told my roommate that but not really accepting of what I tried to tell them.
 
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I am not sure how the OS will do when much of the hardware changes and that I don't think that will allow them to run Windows 11 if I can clone the SSSD to the M.2.
It should be fine. I've changed my hardware multiple times without reinstalling at this point.

Microsoft has done a great deal of good work with driver compatibility.
 
So, after 6 years and a considerable use I've finally decided to get myself a new PC
This time I've got a bigger budget, so so far I've got this part list:
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor (€469.88 @ Amazon Italia)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12A 60.09 CFM CPU Cooler (€111.50 @ Amazon Italia)
Motherboard: ASRock B650M Pro RS WiFi Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard (€186.37 @ Amazon Italia)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory (€242.80 @ Alternate Italia)
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (€147.49 @ Amazon Italia)
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (€147.49 @ Amazon Italia)
Video Card: XFX Speedster MERC 310 Black Edition Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24 GB Video Card (€1049.00 @ Amazon Italia)
Case: Lian Li O11 Air Mini ATX Mid Tower Case (€121.99 @ Amazon Italia)
Power Supply: Cooler Master V850 SFX GOLD 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply (€140.88 @ Amazon Italia)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 PST 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fans 5-Pack (€31.99 @ Amazon Italia)
Monitor: Gigabyte M27Q 27.0" 2560 x 1440 170 Hz Monitor (€338.19 @ Amazon Italia)
Total: €2987.58
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-08-01 22:31 CEST+0200


I'd like to keep the budget at around 3000€, and the build will be mainly used for gaming. I'm planning for a 2K resolution and at least 120 FPS.
Thoughs so far?

In the end I went with this configuration:
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor (€470.88 @ Amazon Italia)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler (€39.99)
Motherboard: ASRock B650M Pro RS WiFi Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard (€183.29 @ Amazon Italia)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory (€246.06 @ Amazon Italia)
Storage: Western Digital Black SN850X 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (€341.16 @ Amazon Italia)
Video Card: XFX Speedster MERC 310 Black Edition Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24 GB Video Card (€1049.00 @ Amazon Italia)
Case: Lian Li O11 Air Mini ATX Mid Tower Case (€96.68 @ Amazon Italia)
Power Supply: Cooler Master V850 SFX GOLD 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply (€159.90 @ Amazon Italia)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 PST 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fans 5-Pack (€31.99 @ Amazon Italia)
Monitor: HP OMEN 27QS 27.0" 2560 x 1440 240 Hz Monitor (€449.99)
Total: €3068.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-08-12 10:39 CEST+0200


Now I just have to wait for the parts to arrive.
 
Kind of ironic toy bring that up. I figured it was something like that.

My other roommate, who is currently using an FX 6300, bought a Rzyen 7 5800x3d, I believe the X570 motherboard, and all the other components you need to build a newcomputer. Using their old graphic card. I told them that a B550 board would be fine and could save them some money but did not want to go that way. They are using an RX 480 8 GB card. For the extra cost of the X570 vs a B550, I think I could get a nice used RX 5700 xt.

They play a lot of Elder Scrolls online and are afraid they will not be able to migrate everything with a new OS install. They want me to clone their SSD to the M.2. I am not sure how the OS will do when much of the hardware changes and that I don't think that will allow them to run Windows 11 if I can clone the SSSD to the M.2. Told my roommate that but not really accepting of what I tried to tell them.
Well, if you want to get very technical about it…

You can in fact swap a windows installation from bios to uefi if absolutely needed, it's just hard. Specifically, you need to:
- Get a new disk, say an M.2.
- Create an UEFI boot partition. 1GB will do.
- Copy your windows installation to a second position, located after the boot partition.
- Boot into the windows installation image.
- Open a terminal window and use bcdboot to create a bootloader for the windows installation on the UEFI partition. Parameters are left as an exercise to the reader.

Needless to say I don't tend to recommend this approach, but it does work. I've done it.
 
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Well, if you want to get very technical about it…

You can in fact swap a windows installation from bios to uefi if absolutely needed, it's just hard. Specifically, you need to:
- Get a new disk, say an M.2.
- Create an UEFI boot partition. 1GB will do.
- Copy your windows installation to a second position, located after the boot partition.
- Boot into the windows installation image.
- Open a terminal window and use bcdboot to create a bootloader for the windows installation on the UEFI partition. Parameters are left as an exercise to the reader.

Needless to say I don't tend to recommend this approach, but it does work. I've done it.

Her old 1 TB SSD was cloned to the 1 TB M.2.
I build the computer.
Booted to BIOS first time and saw no drives.
Switched Bios over to Legacy and was able to boot into Windows
I pretty much told her that going from Windows 10 to Windows 11 is going to be up to her.

Edit: I should add that I am the person in the household who builds computers
At this stage I have built four Ryzen AM4 computers in about a year and rebuild an FX 8350 relatively recently as well.
 
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I want to explore using a AIO or a water-cooling circut, but my friend had his water-cooling leak so I'm pretty worried about using water cooling in future builds.
 
It's a while, but ai believe it was a custom circuit.
That doesn't count as evidence against AIOs, then.

For what it's worth, custom loops are entirely possible to build safely. They just have a lot more pitfalls. If you don't use the right type of fitting, or mix metals, or don't get the outer/inner diameter precisely right, or use slightly too short tubes such that they're under constant strain...

But it isn't hard to build a safe custom loop. You just need to follow a simple checklist, and not assume you're smarter than the guy who wrote it. ...and not forget to look for the checklist.

(If you use two different metals in the same custom loop, then you have two different metals inside the same water cycle. Which means you've just built a battery. It may be a shitty battery, but it's going to electroplate one of the anodes and/or cause tons of corrosion, nonetheless.)
 
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Hello everyone, now that I work from home I can't keep working from just my laptop, so I am putting together a small office (in a corner of my living room lol). This means I am looking to build my first PC, so I am looking for some advice. When I was younger this was the kind of thing my close IRL friends did all the time so I am pretty familiar with the process, but it's been many years since I was current. Additionally, while I had budgeted certain amounts for putting together this office, by sheer chance one of my prior employers completed a review of historical payments and found that I had been underpaid for time there. I do not really understand their logic, but it is still a windfall of money I didn't expect, so it's upped my budget.

  • What's your budget?
My target budget is $5000. That's in AUD, so it's about two bucks US at the moment. I need to buy everything for an office so I need to be mindful of the hardware cost, but I can stretch this if necessary to achieve a future proofed, capable rig, or if there's some good value in paying extra.​
  • What do you want this computer to do?
As mentioned I need this for work, but I want it to be able to smash out some games I've always been interested in but never been able to play, such as Arma, or will be complicated for me to play with my current consoles, such as Starfield. And if I'm going to do that I want a machine with some serious grunt: but with the big changes to Cyberpunk 2077 coming next month I'd like to see exactly what this vaunted 'PC gaming' can do. I've got a PS5 and a big fancy television, so I want to be able to hit those big performance benchmarks around resolution, frame rate, ray tracing, etc. Otherwise there's not much point.

In terms of work nothing I do is very demanding, and my laptop handles it well, but has difficult in terms of multitasking--if I'm doing the accounting or working on policy stuff it would be good to not be always we switching between different tabs or documents. I would also like to be able to do more image and video editing in future, that's proven to be difficult on just my laptop. I do a lot of word processing, too.

My one key requirement is that it be in a Fractal Designs North case, if at all possible​
  • Are you willing to build your own computer? How much do you know about building computers?
I am willing to build my own computer, and I have IRL friends who are experienced in building, so if necessary I can ask them for help.​
  • How long do you want this build to last? When do you plan to upgrade this computer?
Is it unreasonable to ask that I not have to worry about upgrading again for the next five years? I honestly don't know what the standard for this is, these days.​
  • What monitor resolution will you be using?
I mean it's gotta be 4k, right? :V
  • Are you reusing parts from an old computer?
This will be my first desktop PC.​
  • Do you plan to overclock?
I am too much of an amateur for that :V
  • Where will you buying your parts?
Australia. Hard to imagine importing is going to save me money, but I'll do it if it's worth doing.​
  • Do you need to buy the OS (eg: buy windows), KB, mouse, monitor etc?
I will basically need everything. I have a preference for Win10 over Win11, and I'm undecided on whether to go with a multi-monitor or ultrawide set up in terms of the monitor. I'll even take recommendations for a chair, but that's on a different budget lol​

e: also I don't really know if this is particularly relevant, but I don't really want any RGB lighting or anything
 
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