What Can SV Teach an Sorcerer in the Mesolithic?

0. Status, Basics, Summaries, & Tech List
0
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                         NOTICES
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Cacophonous Interlude is NOT active
  (Bianca does NOT hear what you write right now)
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Next story update : soon, I hope
Next vote closing : TBD
Progress toward next update : 2,724 words
We're on step 5: reading & composition of in-line replies
Total words in 'what Bianca's been told' notes : 3,119
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Anything I post that's not in vote options, quote boxes,
code blocks or in spoilers may be understood to be said
by Bianca.
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Players do not need to use code blocks or spoilers
outside of cacophonous interludes

If you use code blocks, please limit yourself to 32 lines
and your lines to 57 characters, so that people on mobile
can read them without scrolling within the code block
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You can quote other sources, but I don't want this to 
turn into Plagiarism Quest.

You're not discouraged from using outside reference
material or quoting other sources. When you do, please
cite your sources in spoilers or a code box.

Please do not use Large Language Model assistants like
ChatGPT or similar to compose your effortposts. I mean
for this game to be about communication, not prompt
engineering.

Thank you.



Check the summaries in this status post and read the latest story post in the Threadmarks to get a rough idea of where things are at.

If you're not already involved in the game and you want to get right into it without digging through the back catalog, consider doing this:
  1. Read the summaries in this Status Post.
  2. Pull up the latest Threadmark.
  3. Skip to the line that says "B R E A K."
  4. Skim from there to get an idea of what's going on.

If there's no Closing The Vote post in the Informationals corresponding to the latest Threadmarks, then the game is in a Cacophonous Interlude and Bianca will hear what you post, unless you post inside spoilers or code boxes. The NOTICES portion at the top of this post should also tell you if the game is in a Cacophonous Interlude.

If the game is not in a Cacophonous Interlude, you can still post. It's just that Bianca can't hear you. You might still want to post so you can coordinate with other players, make suggestions, ask questions, and propose plans. You can compose a message to Bianca all whether or not the game is in a Cacophonous Interlude. And once the game returns to a Cacophonous Interlude, you can vote and/or send a message to Bianca by creating a post in the thread.

If you want to vote, simply do so as you would in other quests on this board. You may look at other players' votes to see how yours should be formatted. And you may check the tally to see that yours are counted as you intend them. I should find the 'how to vote' general post and link it here, I guess.

If you want to send a message to Bianca, keep in mind that she is a creature of another time. She may not understand what you mean if you don't take the time to make it clear. This game rewards and demands work from its players. When a player wants to introduce a concept or tool or technology to Bianca, that player will probably need to expend effort to explain it carefully, and take into consideration the limits of her understanding of the world. You might even need to consider her biases and values.

I think this is similar enough to Graeber's 'interpretive labor' that we can use the term colloquially to describe what is being asked of players. Put yourself in the mind of Bianca and ask yourself how such a person can be made to understand what you want to tell her.

Bianca has different values than we do. She has different assumptions about the world and objects and forces within it. Her goals may not align directly with number-go-up or color-get-big gaming agendas. But she wants power and will listen most attentively to players that tell her how to get more of or closer to what she wants.

Keep in mind that you players are not trusted advisors. You're the Astute Cacophony: voices that Bianca mostly can't tell apart from each other.

If the total amount of player-generated content gets to be more than I can handle either because there are so many players or because player posts get so long, I will set a cap. At this time, I intend that the cap will be some total number of characters, with each player who speaks to Bianca having access to an equal share. Unused share gets divided up among the rest of the players until it runs out. If each player's share seems too small, I will also set a limit on the number of players Bianca will hear in a Cacophonous Interlude. And priority will be assigned based on post order.

I guess ideally the story doesn't attract so many people who want to guide the uplift that I have to set these limits.

I do not at this time plan to set a limit on voting players. I don't see how that could get out of hand on a niche quest like this.
  1. I post and Threadmark a story update that has 3 parts:
    • Bianca's responses to player posts made during the last Cacophonous Interlude, followed by 'B R E A K'
    • An update by Bianca following a hiatus of varying length but usually some number of years, covering what she believes is worth mentioning
    • Requests by Bianca for direction on a number of issues, which the players will provide in the form of votes
  2. Following each story update, players' posts are audible to Bianca until voting is closed.
    This is the Cacophonous Interlude.
    • Players may convey any information they can represent in text.
    • No images, sounds, or hyperlinks will get through (this is my limitation, not a limitation of the game, so please do not try to transcend it with clever protocol tricks).
    • Players may use spoilers or code blocks to communicate with me and with each other without doing so in ways Bianca can hear.
  3. When votes are tallied, I collect player posts in an Informational so that it may be known what Bianca heard.
    • Votes are tallied in the conventional fashion. So only votes in the most recent post by each player are counted. [X] marks what the player is voting for. And only effectively identical write-ins accumulate votes.
    • You can vote your own write-in any time you want anyway, of course.
  4. I collect player posts and post them in the vote results for reference. This is the point where what is said in the Cacophonous Interlude is locked in.
  5. I read player posts, take notes, determine what Bianca already thinks she knows, and compose Bianca's in-line replies to those posts that invite replies.
  6. I research player advice, claims, and suggestions, check my notes for precedent, determine what Bianca's right or wrong about, how likely she is to engage with the topic, how likely Blanca's followers are to follow through in the matter, and finally what the result is going to be, later in the narrative.
  7. When the narrative benefits from uncertainty and chance, I devise tests for Bianca or other characters and make those tests using die rolls on a post made just for that purpose.
    • Skill or attribute tests will be made with a largely undocumented homebrew that's mostly the Burning Wheel system, notably including War and Factions from the Burning Wheel Anthology -- which I really, really would have benefitted from the last time around -- on d10s with different 'shade' ranges (see below), no Artha, no Beliefs or Instincts, no Stock-exclusive skills, probably no Emotional Attributes, and clocks from Blades in the Dark because setting automation is fantastic. (The Burning Wheel is a good system and I encourage you to check it out.)
      • I will post the dice, threshold of success, and results of each test before rolling it.
      • Tests may:
        • Be made by rolling one of an entity's attributes against a static target, or may
        • Be made by two entities each rolling one of their attributes where the one with the greater result wins to some degree, and may
        • Have absolute results, or may
        • Have tiered results, and may
        • Result in pyrrhic victories or welcome defeats.
      • The rules being used and followed will be described in each Informational in which tests are made.
      • Normal mortals count 7s and better toward success.
      • Heroic characters and characters who are otherwise innately magical count 6s and better toward success, so long as what they're doing aligns with their heroism or their magical theme.
      • Demigod characters and characters who otherwise possess some spark of divinity count 5s and better toward success, so long as what they're doing aligns with their divine heritage.
      • Gods and count 4s and better toward success, as do their avatars, so long as what the avatar is doing aligns with the god's domains.
      • Gods count 3s and better toward success when what they're going aligns with their domains.
      • 1s and 2s never count toward success.
      • Sorcery, other magic skills, and some magical tools lower the threshold of success by a non-cumulative 1 to a minimum of 3 only when they are or are essential to the skill being tested, not when they help with other skills. Players may note that a god's threshold of success when they are acting within their domain does not improve when they use magic or magical tools.
      • Helping dice provided by magic, magical items, tame (not domesticated) warbeasts larger than hounds, or any incendiary devices more complicated than a burning arrow roll an additional die after each 9 or 10 and keep counting successes. Further 9s & 10s lead to further rolls. Unless the magic, magical item, or incendiary device is the product of an especially refined industry or practice (no exceptions for non-domesticated big warbeasts -- if the animal is dangerous to the enemy it is dangerous to everyone), these same helping dice cancel successes on 1s & 2s and roll another die for each 1 or 2. Additional 1s & 2s cancel additional successes. More 1s, 2s, 9s, or 10s mean more rerolling and more successes or cancelations, but only in the manner of the original die. That is, when a 9 or 10 on a helping die from war elephants provides an additional die and that die rolls a 1 or 2, that doesn't cancel successes or lead to further additional dice.
    • When players expect a test -- for example if they vote for an invasion or to send a diplomat to manipulate a foreign leader -- they might be able to add helping dice to the test by providing Bianca with advice specific to that matter. If the advice is not mistaken or outright bad, there will be at least a chance it will help. Often, decent advice adds dice. Sometimes good advice may outright guarantee success, preventing the test entirely.
    • I'm going to have to choose some kind of accumulation-of-progress-toward-a-goal mechanic that fits the faction clocks from Burning Wheel but I'm not sure about how that's going to work right now. Maybe Conflicts from Mouseguard or Torchbearer?
    • Similarly, since this is an uplift quest and players will often provide incomplete but potentially sufficient information, some kind of test will be needed to see if Bianca and/or her minions are able to fill in the gaps and implement the desired technology. This is probably just going to be some skill test with a high obstacle and not-a-complete-failure thresholds that make the next test easier and whoops-all-on-fire-now thresholds that make the next test harder.
  8. I compose Bianca's post-hiatus update, new questions for vote, and new vote options.
  9. GOTO 1
Bianca will be the only character the players will directly interact with in this game.

Bianca is a human-shaped interface in the material world for a powerful soul entity. She's smaller than most of the human and human-like people she's met. And her phenotypic expression is unique from all surviving human-like populations. She looks really old and she'll tell you that she wears it well.

Bianca has magical abilities related to her original function as a vault guardian for her missing maker. She has other magical abilities related to the hundreds of years she spent traveling the world after she gave up waiting on her maker. As a being of divine heritage, Bianca counts 6s and better as successes on all tests. The nature of her divine heritage means she counts 5s and better as successes if what she's doing is related to getting into god crypts or similar, keeping others from getting into the same, or awakening great soul-things that have been cut off from the material world since the last time magic wasn't forbidden by reality. Other applications exist and haven't appeared in the game.

Bianca needs to return to the vault that her maker entrusted to her every few years for magical maintenance on her material form. She's pretty sure that if her material form is destroyed without injuring her soul and the stuff in that vault is intact she can rebuild her material 'body.'

Bianca has claimed to perform Soul Magic, Wayfinding Magic, and Healing Magic. She can also enchant objects under unspecified circumstances.

Despite sacrificing autonomy to connect with the Astute Cacophony, Bianca values her independence.

1. Era Choice
Bianca woke up from a long time when magic didn't work. Afterward, she spent about 900 years in the place where she woke, which the god who made her told her to guard before everyone who couldn't survive without magic went into some kind of hibernation. Then Bianca traveled the world for around another 900 years. She found people who didn't have magic. She didn't find any gods.

Bianca understands that the players can't tell her about the setting's magical systems. She wants power and wants the players to tell her how to get power in the material world.

There's stuff in Bianca's Vault that does things she understands, and more that she doesn't.

Bianca asks the players when the game should start.
2. Three Quests at the Dawn of the World
The players choose the Stone Age, but just barely.

Bianca starts with two magic items: the Red Knife, a very nice Acheulean hand axe enchanted to keep its edge and not break; and the Coat of Two Suns, a shimmery cloak made from the hide of an unspecified magical creature ("swift running beasts that shimmer like water") enchanted to smell good and be soft.

The players give Bianca a lot of advice. More than one suggest iron, which Bianca says she'll try to get.

Bianca spends around 400 years getting pottery working, finding iron ore, figuring out iron smelting and fining, making soap, figuring out clay pot distillation of alcohol, obtaining potassium nitrite, and figuring out steel bluing.

There's a community of fishers in a bay near where she's digging up ore. She pulls them into her shenanigans. The place they live is called Black Hook Bay.

Bianca enchants the best blued steel 'knife' she made like her Red Knife. It's called the Black Knife now.

The combination of the pescatarian lure of (mostly) relatively easy meat and the steel tools Bianca has given them and has taught them to make keeps the Black Hook Bay people around longer than the land will endure with grace. They've grown in number and overstayed their time such that they've cleared out medicinal and essential nutrition plants from the area. Also, they lost knowledge of a lot of them.

(Un?)fortunately, their neighbors are within reach for young people with iron weapons and bright ideas. So raids are solving some problems and creating others.

Bianca has asked the players which of three tasks she should undertake: very cursed dungeon crawl, suborn a murderous cult trying to summon the kind of god murderous cults summon, or befriend some monsters who aren't finding a place for themselves in a world after they went through some big changes.
3. Launching the River Warrior's Legend
Players chose to split Bianca's attention between a main focus on befriending the winged lions with a little side-trip to fuck up something powerful's blood-soaked wake-up call. Bianca does not win the trust of the lions and they leave. Bianca reached out again around 220 years after her last contact.

Armed with an indicator species and the function of the liver, Bianca decides that The Problem with Black Hook Bay is something in the water downstream from her smelting sites. She tells the people to move and not use the water in certain places and matters improve.

Bianca invents an alphabet, writes down iron-making instructions, and teaches BHB folk to read. They're a bit excited about being able to write their own names on stuff, but don't use literacy enough to keep it long term

Bianca loses interest in glassmaking after a series of frustrating explosions but the BHB folk are in love with the stuff and are going to try to figure it out for themselves.

Those rare magic livers the BHB folk end up with make them resistant to poisons and are there because Bianca was healing that population for generations.

People the BHB have been stealing from get fed up and follow a Special Kid on a Unicorn to attack the BHB. They get trounced and the BHB gets the Horn of Sheshlan, which has healing powers. They also get a head start on regaining their lost area lore, but kind of fuck that up instead of making progress when they get the chance.

Bianca goes looking for a place to invent farming and picks some nice floodplains with just one problem: a magical river dolphin that fucks up whatever Bianca doesn't ward the fuck out of every time the river floods. She's picked out a grain to focus on and can grow more than she can harvest alone. But she can't get enough to keep people fed year round. She does bring seed back to BHB at unspecified intervals to get more iron for tools.

Bianca kind of raised a Heroic River Warrior and needs to give the woman something to focus on.

Bianca asks the players about handling that very cursed dungeon crawl from last time, the possible murder god's wake-up call that's kind of trying to stop being on hold, that fucking dolphin, and a cache of bog iron up-country that she's been thinking about.

This list is of things that Bianca has described to exist in the setting independently (or -- later in play -- at least seemingly independently) of actions she has taken based on player advice.
  • Language
  • 'Wolves' (dogs)
  • 'Hide' clothing
  • 'Webs of vegetation' clothing
  • Sharp sticks
  • 'Broken rocks' (knapped stone tools and weapons)
  • 'How to live in the places they go' (local plant, animal, mineral, weather, and geographic lore)
  • 'Brimstone' (elemental sulfur at volcanic sites)
  • Murder
  • 'Dragon Glyphs' (actual ideograms (as opposed to logograms) that are used by or the product of magic)
  • 'Counting by dozens, grosses, great gosses, and so on' (base-12 eunmeration)
    • 'Dragon counting' (base-8)
  • 'Bulbs that grow leaves like a hawk's tail' which nearly all people plant wherever they go
  • Spreading the seeds of every plant they use as they travel
  • 'Don't handle shit, don't eat rotten things, & keep the midden away from living spaces ' (very basic hygiene)
  • Rope
  • Gold, silver, iron, and copper (all very rare)
  • Needles
  • Thread
  • 'Boats' (logs that dream of being as cool as caballito de totora but have a long way to go before they get there)
  • 'Webs' (nets, this time)
  • Resource raiding
  • Poisoning
  • 'Sunstead' (understanding of the seasons sufficient to identify a solstice)
  • Bows and arrows
  • Soft metal seen once that might have been lead
  • "Where beasts' seeds fell outside the womb" (ectopic pregnancies in animals)
  • Bees and honey
  • Toys that spin in the wind
  • 'Stones to weigh down webs' (weighted nets)
  • Buckskin tanning
  • Unicorns, horses, and zebras
    • Unicorns are larger than horses, not as robustly build, and have a magic horn
    • Zebras have family dynamics
    • Stallions do not lead horse herds, they herd from the back
  • Hills and walls of ice in high places and far north and south (Glaciers and polar caps)
  • "The world is round like a perfect river stone"
  • "There is something in the work that brains do with substance that touches the Soul Lands"
  • Bone setters (she says people just figure that shit out all the time)
  • Basket fishing and fish weirs
  • Baskets in general
  • Non-domesticated grains, beans, and nuts
  • River dolphins
This list is of things that have been described to Bianca. To let me know about something I missed, PM me a link and a searchable keyword from the passage.
Bianca reports failure
Bianca reports success - Skill exponent opened (if any)
  • Writing
    • Paper
    • Soot ink
    • Printing press
    • Cypher Wheel
  • Farming
    • Irrigation
    • Evolution
    • Selective breeding
    • Food preservation
  • Disease
    • Sickmakers (pathogens)
      • Wound care - Field Dressing
    • Undersuckling (nutritional deficiency)
    • Slow poisons
    • 'Free problems' 'wardful flesh problems' (immune problems)
    • Cankers (cancer)
    • 'Origin problems' (genetic problems)
  • Lye-making - no Skill opened
  • Soap-making - no Skill opened
  • 'The stain' (alcohol) making - Distiller
  • Clay pots and other shapes - Potter
    • Waterproofing clay with ash - no Skill opened
  • Bricks & mortar - Mason
  • 'Rock-cooking tower' (smelter) - Tree Cutter & Miner (kind of incidentally)
  • 'Air-cooking tower' (blast furnace) - no Skill opened
  • 'Bubbling cooking tower' (finery) - no Skill opened
  • Metal
    • Copper
      • Malachite
      • Chalcocite
    • Tin
      • Cassiterite
      • Bronze
    • Zinc
      • Smithsonite and hemimorphite
      • Brass
    • Iron - Blacksmith
      • Magnetite
      • Hematite
      • 'Firm iron' (steel) - no Skill opened
  • 'Blue-making' (steel bluing corrosion protection) - no Skill opened
  • 'Fat on iron' (steel oiling corrosion protection) - no Skill opened
  • 'Blow-bags (bellows) - no Skill opened
  • 'Charred coals' (charcoal) - no Skill opened
  • 'Biters' (tongs) - no Skill opened
  • 'Burning' (annealing)
  • 'Pot-ash-niter crystals' (potassium nitrate) - Munitions
  • 'Outclappers' (explosives)
  • The value of falsifiable claims (Scientific method)
  • 'Improved midden' (covered latrine) - no Skill opened
  • Long bows - Bowyer
  • Fletched arrows - Fletcher
  • 'Trunk and take' (block and tackle and related compound bow)
  • 'returning doves (homing pigeons)
  • Nose and mouth masks when in the presence of sick people
  • Storm signs
    • Birds fly low
    • Smoke stays low
    • People ache more
    • Pests bites more
    • Smells are stronger
    • Clouds that are tall, fast, or change direction
    • Certain people's headaches
  • Volcanos should show up in lines (plate tectonics)
  • Lighting lure - no Skill opened
  • Bog iron - no Skill opened
  • Boats
    • Dugout boats - Boatwright
    • Second boat fastened to first by stout branches (outrigger) - Carpentry
    • Pitch - Pitch Collector
    • Oars - Wood Carving
    • Sail
    • Seabirds fly away from land in the morning and toward it at night
    • Shallow water reflects more light to the underside of clouds
  • Buildings
    • Cob
    • Start walls below the ground (foundations)
    • Fire in home with smoke pipe (fireplace and chimney)
    • Arches - Architect
    • Concrete
  • 'Breaking rock with outclapping stuff' (blast mining with explosives)
  • Tools
    • 'Shover' (shovel)
    • 'Point' (pick)
    • 'Striker' (hoe)
    • 'Cutter' (chisel)
    • Breaking up rocks with fire
    • Hafting by shrinkage and spike and even glue
  • Agriculture
    • Plow
    • 'Dirt making' (compost) - Farming
      • Basket with layers of green & brown, little water, ready 6 months later
    • Use the seeds of the plants that work best
    • Remove undesired plants
    • Mushroom farming - Farmer
  • Grow branches as forms for clay pipes
  • Hills and ravines against flood rivers (levees and canals)
  • 'Fighters that only fight' (Standing army)
    • People should have a plan and a leader they'll listen to if they want to win combat
    • And they should play at fighting to get better at fighting
    • Murder axes should the lighter so they're faster
  • Glassmaking
  • Glue - Mending
  • Liquor social
  • Hypothermia recovery
  • Math
    • Vertical addition
    • Vertical subtraction
    • Partial product multiplication
    • Long division
  • Body weight poison determinism
  • Saltpans - no Skill opened
  • Phonetic alphabet - Read and Write
 
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I was mostly including rockets in that - raising a reason why it might be worthwhile to build them beyond GUN.

I think a crossbow/arrow-launcher of that type would be an explosion waiting to happen. At least with a gun you only have one part trying to tear itself to pieces. Plus you'd still have to span it.

I am extremely sceptical of gyrojets. Afaik rockets and guns are somewhat opposite in where the engineering difficulty lies, where with guns it's mostly the weapon while with rockets it's mostly the ammunition. Actual gyrojets were a useless boondoggle even for a literally space-age society.

Better off with bigger rockets. It's easier to make one rocket accurate than a hundred and even if you can't, required accuracy is inversely correlated with warhead size.

Coincidentally, gyrojets have no warhead at all.

I don't think there's any point worrying about gas. Chemical warfare is mostly a side effect of a developed chemical industry and Bianca won't even be able to make sulfuric acid for a long time.
 
Classic in these quests.
Thinking about rockets when our evil overlady still lacks looms, candles, door hinges, locks and keys or 101 "simple" devices.
 
I am extremely sceptical of gyrojets. Afaik rockets and guns are somewhat opposite in where the engineering difficulty lies, where with guns it's mostly the weapon while with rockets it's mostly the ammunition. Actual gyrojets were a useless boondoggle even for a literally space-age society.

They worked, they just were not competitive with contemporary handguns. They essentially require a rifle length barrel to be remotely accurate, and the gyrojets were primarily sold as pistols.

The other part of it is that they were sold largely as technology demonstrators, and the actual design of the ammunition and gun was kind of shit, and essentially the worst performance possible for the concept.

For gyrojets to show their advantages, they really need to be larger to show their performance advantages. A gyrojet lets you have a 20mm rotary cannon that can be practically fired from the hip terminator-style, with comparable terminal ballistics to an actual 20mm autocannon.

The ammo can be made from a stamped steel rounded cylinder with a nozzle plug pinned in the end. The most difficult part of the plug is drilling the nozzles, and that just needs a drilling jig with custom drill bits.

The stamping press for the cylinders will require more complex machine tools to make practical, though, hmm.

Now that I think of it, the mass production of the cylindrical shells is beyond what could be reasonable. That requires large and precise metal lathes to make the stamping dies.

My point about them not being a useless concept still stands, though. The original implementation of them was just terrible.

The better option for cartridge ammunition would be a paper cartridge of these:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uRfNj744qv4

This cartridge design removes the biggest problem with paper cartridges, that of extraction, and removes the need for a breech.

How this works is by having a muzzle loader, and loading a cartridge into the muzzle. When fired, the cartridge case shoots a bullet and a powder charge with a percussion cap down the barrel from the muzzle, while the paper cartridge desintegrates and flies out the end of the barrel, pushing the hammer that fired it out of the way. Then the powder charge and bullet hits the sealed end of the barrel, the percussion cap fires with the impact, and the powder charge then shoots the bullet back out the barrel.

This requires no breech, it is a cartridge that can be used in a muzzle loader.

It also allows something like this to be used with a pump action, again without any breech:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kd_hwY0w90

This is a practical way to get repeating firearms without breech loaders.

I don't think there's any point worrying about gas. Chemical warfare is mostly a side effect of a developed chemical industry and Bianca won't even be able to make sulfuric acid for a long time.

I think you are seriously overestimating the difficulty of sulfuric acid synthesis, though I am thinking of a particularly clever pathway I put together for it.

Chlorine gas is really, really simple to make, you just need saltwater and electricity, and you can use diving bells lowered from boats or floating platforms for pressurization instead of pumps.

They are still relevant because they are one of the few ways of practically utilizing a limited bomblift or rocket artillery payload efficiently outside of a nuclear weapon.

The biggest reason why the early cold war saw so many missiles with nukes and nerve agent cluster munitions was the lack of accuracy requiring larger effective kill areas. For minimally guided V-1 style cruise missiles or unguided bombs from bombers, we won't have the industrial capacity to have WW2 levels of bomblift capacity, yet our tech level will limit us to area bombing accuracy.

So, we need a force multiplier to bridge the gap needed for effective strategic bombing, and nerve agents in cluster munitions is the most practical option, with the exception of cluster thermobaric weapons and incendiary bat bombs.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WLBeWf8K_M

I think a crossbow/arrow-launcher of that type would be an explosion waiting to happen. At least with a gun you only have one part trying to tear itself to pieces. Plus you'd still have to span it.

Well, no. What I meant was essentially applying compound pulleys to a ballista, to make it into a gigantic compound crossbow.

That would actually make them less likely to explode, as the limbs are moving less.

The other thing you can do is make monstrously powerful trebuchets with much smaller size, by using a pulley and a rope wrapped around the pivot of the throwing arm to multiply the speed of the falling mass, which lets you greatly increase the range and power of a trebuchet with limited size.
 
J: For the record, we're planning for our revised gunpost to dump most of the firearms tech tree on Bianca in one go, up to repeating breechloading rifles using electrical ignition. Won't have the words left afterwards to explain making smokeless powder or percussion primers, so if someone would chip that in it would be greatly appreciated. Seriously that takes synthesizing sulfuric and nitric acids, it's a big complex production chain.

J: Also, we'll be including instructions for the rabies vaccine.
 
DRAFT: Revised gunpost
Junction speaking. Let's try again on getting you some workable explosives. You already know how to acquire all the necessary ingredients for black powder: Potassium Nitrate, Charcoal, and ignition boosters. Options for ignition boosters include Sulfur and ground-up grain powder that's been cooked until browning.

The proportions of the ingredients can vary depending on desired characteristics, but by weight a decent starting point is three quarters Potassium Nitrate, one sixth Charcoal, and one twelfth ignition booster. All ingredients should be ground to fine dust while wet, and mixed thoroughly; the water both improves mixing and greatly reduces the risk of explosions during manufacture.

At the end of mixing, you should have a thick paste. Now squeeze said paste through a strong board with holes drilled through it. You want rounded pieces of paste in a regular size, which are dried afterwards. There is a reason for this: small gaps between the pellets of black powder allow its flames to spread very quickly throughout the entire charge, greatly increasing the force it can produce in a short amount of time. Different applications call for different sized pellets; the faster the blast needs to be, the smaller the pellets should be, provided there are still gaps for the flame to spread.

Also, black powder needs to burn in an enclosed space in order to concentrate its blast into a single shock. This requires a container of some rigid material, which can include the rock you're attempting to break if you're using black powder for mining. There are other explosives that don't need the container, but they're much more complicated to make.

Once you've got it working properly, there are two very powerful projectile weapons using black powder that you can create: rockets and guns.

They both involve black powder in a tube that's open on one end, producing a directional force. In guns, a projectile is launched from the tube at great speed. In rockets, the tube is the projectile. We'll be focusing on guns for now.

Firstly, a gun's tube needs to be strong. Cast molten steel into an upright mold, with a wooden dowel sticking straight up from the bottom. Once the steel has cooled, burn out the remaining wood, then use a hard-edged spinning steel cutting tool - a drill - to bore out the inside of the tube until smooth. Then use a smaller drill to bore a small hole near the sealed back of the tube.

At the absolute most basic level, this is a functional gun. Pour black powder down the tube, ram down a metal ball - a bullet -wrapped in cloth or paper, apply a flame to the rear hole, and the bullet will be launched from the tube at great speed by the powder's ignition.

Your best option for bullet materials is a soft metal like copper, lead, or possibly gold. Galena is a common lead ore that can be smelted in an ordinary wood fire; it appears as light grey angular crystals, is brittle, scratches easily, has a metallic sheen, and when scraped against a ceramic surface it leaves a light grey streak. Remember, lead is a slow poison that especially damages the mind, and it retains this property regardless of form. Take care to keep it out of the body of anyone you don't intend to kill, and especially make sure it cannot contaminate bodies of water. Don't use lead shot for food hunting, only for killing things that won't be eaten.

With the basics covered, there are several possible improvements to accuracy, ease of use, and speed of reloading that can be made from here. We'll start with improvements to accuracy.

The first is to build the gun in such a manner that it can be aimed and lit simultaneously. A wooden brace allowing you to hold the back of the gun firmly against your shoulder helps greatly here, as does one of the ignition mechanisms we'll be describing in a bit, allowing the gun to be lit simply by pulling a trigger. Another simple improvement is to put little protrusions of metal on top of the gun tube, which are aligned with the direction it will send the bullet; if the sights are lined up in your vision, and they align with your target, you know the gun is pointing towards them.

The most significant other improvement to accuracy is rifling; shaping a spiraling pattern into the inside of the tube so it imparts spin onto the bullet. A simple option is to cut spiral grooves into the inside of the tube with the following tool: a square iron rod that has been twisted to a desired spiral, then secured through two square holes on a clamping rack that can also secure the tube. The cutting end has a wooden rod with very hard steel blades embedded in it, cutting into the tube as the rod is pushed and spun down it. Start shallow, and make the blades slightly wider with each pass.

Rifling allows bullets to be shaped like a cylinder with a point on the front without tumbling, which also greatly aids range and penetration. There are two ways to get these cylindrical bullets to engage with a gun's rifling; either load them from the back of the gun and have them squeezed into the rifling by the blast, or include a conical hollow in the back of the bullet that the blast forces wider to engage the rifling.

Worth noting is that these methods of making a bullet properly engage with rifling hit significantly harder than round balls from smoothbores; the better seal results in more of the powder's force being used to accelerate the bullet, causing it to punch right through and shatter bones when a round bullet would instead take a winding course through the body.

There are four methods of gun ignition: flame, friction, percussion, and electrical. The last three are self-igniting, meaning they don't need a pre-existing flame to shoot the gun. Unfortunately, we cannot explain percussion and electrical ignition at the present time. Word limits.

Flame ignition is simplest: attach a lever to the gun; one end that you pull on, the other end with a clamp for a burning cord, previously soaked in potassium nitrate. The idea is that pulling on the lever brings the burning cord in contact with the touch-hole, igniting the gun.

Friction ignition requires three pieces of flexible iron that forcibly return to their initial shape if bent - springs. It also contains four other moving parts, which we will now describe.

First is the trigger; this is a small lever protruding from the bottom of the gun, which the shooter pulls with their finger. The trigger is pivoted at the top, with a protrusion on its rear that pushes up on the back of the sear when pulled.

The sear is pivoted forwards of the trigger; the first spring pushes its back down, while the trigger pushes its back up. The front of the sear has a protrusion, which can engage with the notches on the tumbler.

The tumbler is centrally pivoted, with a frontal protrusion and three differently-shaped notches in the bottom. The main spring pushes down on the frontal protrusion with great force, and the notches engage with the sear.

The first notch is more of a solid wall to stop the tumbler when it hits the sear. This ensures that no matter how far the trigger is pulled, the tumbler can't rotate too far.

The second notch overlaps the sear's protrusion when the sear rests in it, so that no matter how you pull the trigger the sear won't dislodge. This allows the gun to be kept in a half-cocked state, allowing it to be safely loaded and carried with minimal risk of accidental firing.

The third notch is what the sear's protrusion nests in when ready to fire. The angle here needs to be shallow, as does the indent, so that pulling the trigger easily dislodges the sear from the notch. The outer edge of the notch also needs to be far enough away from the tumbler's center of rotation to prevent the sear from getting caught in the second notch when the trigger is pulled.

When pulled back to the fully cocked position and the trigger is pulled, the second spring causes the tumbler to rapidly rotate forwards, which also rotates an arm attached to the same pivot as the tumbler, henceforth called the hammer.

A clamp on the hammer holds a piece of flint, such that the hammer's motion will scrape it across the iron frizzen, producing sparks. The frizzen is both a lid for a small container of black powder over the touch-hole, and has an angled striking surface so the flint forces it open in the process of scraping sparks. The third spring engages with a notch on the frizzen's pivot, holding it in either the open or closed position as needed.

The result is that someone using a friction-ignited gun can have a shot ready for some time before they need to shoot, protected from most weather. This prepared shot can then be used on a moment's notice. There is some risk of malfunction, but it usually works properly.

Regarding reloading speed, there's an easy way, a medium way, and a hard way, roughly increasing in effectiveness as the difficulty goes up. The easy way is to make paper cartridges; a pre-measured quantity of gunpowder and bullet, wrapped in paper. Pour the powder into the tube and maybe the flashpan for a friction gun, then ram the bullet down the tube with the paper serving as wadding to keep it in place. This removes much guesswork and fiddling from the process of reloading in a hurry.

Papermaking reminder: peel wood into thin strips, soak it in water for several days, boil it until soft. Mash the softened wood strips into a pulp, press that pulp into thin sheets, and then dry it. Paper can be waxed for water resistance, which is highly recommended for gun cartridges. Melt wax onto dried paper, then squeeze it flat until all the excess wax dribbles out the sides for re-use.

The medium way is to make a breechloader; make the back of the gun open, with a steel block that you can slide or rotate to open or close it using a lever on the back of the gun. Open it up, shove a paper cartridge in the back bullet-first, tear the cartridge open to expose the powder, close the back of the gun, and it's ready to shoot. Very precise metalwork is required to get a good seal between the tube and the block, which you need to avoid a dramatic decrease in shooting power.

The hard way is metal cartridges. They're exactly what they sound like: a metal tube containing powder and bullet that you stick in the back of the gun. The cartridge being inside the tube means they're quite good at forcing the gas from firing to propel the bullet instead of leaking, and you don't need to fiddle with the cartridge during combat at all aside from taking them out and putting fresh ones in.

You can even make a gun with internal storage for metal cartridges, using a mechanism to greatly speed extraction and loading, but that's a very complex topic that will need to wait for another time.

When training gunners for war, use targets shaped like people. Use of square or round targets will not impart sufficient willingness to kill to actually shoot people. Most shooters trained on square or round targets will simply fire in the general direction of the enemy as intimidation, wasting their gun's lethality.

Guns can also be made extremely large, needing carts or boats to move them around. These huge guns are useful for killing large numbers of people at once, especially when loaded with lots of small bullets.
version 1 said:
Junction speaking. Let's try again on getting you some workable explosives. You already know how to acquire all the necessary ingredients for black powder: Potassium Nitrate, Charcoal, and ignition boosters. Options for ignition boosters include Sulfur and ground-up grain powder that's been cooked until browning.

The proportions of the ingredients can vary depending on desired characteristics, but by weight a decent starting point is three quarters Potassium Nitrate, one sixth Charcoal, and one twelfth ignition booster. All ingredients should be ground to fine dust while wet, and mixed thoroughly; the water both improves mixing and greatly reduces the risk of explosions during manufacture.

At the end of mixing, you should have a thick paste. At this point, squeeze said paste through a strong board with holes drilled through it. The idea is to have rounded pieces of paste in a regular size, which are dried after the squeezing. There is a reason for this: small gaps between the pellets of black powder allow its flames to spread very quickly throughout the entire charge, greatly increasing the force it can produce in a short amount of time. Different applications call for different sized pellets; the faster the blast needs to be, the smaller the pellets should be, provided there are still gaps for the flame to spread.

In addition, black powder needs to burn in an enclosed space in order to concentrate its blast into a single shock. This requires that it be in a container of some rigid material, which can include the rock you're attempting to break if you're using it for mining. There are other explosives that don't need the container, but they are much more complicated to make.

Once you've got it working properly, there are two very powerful projectile weapons using black powder that you will be able to create: rockets and guns.

Both of them involve black powder in a tube that's open on one end to produce a directional force. In guns, a projectile is launched from the tube at great speed. In rockets, the tube is the projectile. We'll be focusing on guns for now.

Firstly, a gun's tube needs to be strong. Cast molten steel into an upright mold, with a wooden dowel sticking straight up from the bottom. Once the steel has cooled, burn out the remaining wood, then use a hard-edged spinning steel cutting tool - a drill - to bore out the inside of the tube until smooth. Then use a smaller drill to bore a small hole near the sealed back of the tube.

At the absolute most basic level, this is a functional gun. Pour black powder down the tube, ram down a metal ball - a bullet -wrapped in cloth or paper, apply a flame to the rear hole, and the bullet will be launched from the tube at great speed by the powder's ignition. There are several possible improvements to accuracy, ease of use, and speed of reloading that can be made from here. We'll start with improvements to accuracy.

The first is to build the gun in such a manner that it can be aimed and lit simultaneously. A wooden brace allowing you to hold the back of the gun firmly against your shoulder helps greatly here, as does one of the four ignition mechanisms we'll be describing in a bit, allowing the gun to be lit simply by pulling a trigger. Another simple improvement is to put little protrusions of metal on top of the gun tube, which are aligned with the direction it will send the bullet; if the sights are lined up in your vision, and they align with your target, you know the gun is pointing towards them.

Aside from that, the most significant improvement to accuracy is rifling- shaping a spiraling pattern into the inside of the tube so it imparts spin onto the bullet. Carved spiral grooves are a common type. This allows the bullets to be shaped like a cylinder with a point on the front without tumbling, which also greatly aids range and penetration. There are two ways to get these cylindrical bullets to engage with a gun's rifling; either load them from the back of the gun and have them squeezed into the rifling by the blast, or include a conical hollow in the back of the bullet that the blast forces wider to engage the rifling.

Either of these options works best with a soft metal like copper, lead, or possibly gold. Galena is a common lead ore that can be smelted in an ordinary wood fire; it appears as light grey angular crystals, is brittle, scratches easily, has a metallic sheen, and when scraped against a ceramic surface it leaves a light grey streak. Remember, lead is a slow poison that especially damages the mind, and it retains this property no matter its form. Take extra care to keep it out of the body of anyone you don't intend to kill, and especially make sure it cannot contaminate bodies of water. As such, don't use lead shot for food hunting, only for killing things you don't want to eat.

There are four methods of firearms ignition: flame, friction, percussion, and electrical. The last three are self-igniting, meaning they don't need a pre-existing flame to shoot the gun. Percussion requires different explosives with different properties, so we won't explain it right now.

Flame ignition is simplest: attach a pivoted lever to the gun; one end that you pull on, the other end with a clamp for a burning cord that's been soaked in potassium nitrate. The idea is that pulling on the lever brings the burning cord in contact with the touch-hole, igniting the gun.

Friction ignition requires three pieces of flexible iron that forcibly return to their initial shape if bent - springs. It also has a significant number of moving parts, which we will now describe. First is the trigger; this is a small lever protruding from the bottom of the gun, which the shooter pulls with their finger. Gear teeth on top of the trigger engage with the Sear, reversing the direction of rotation. The sear has a protrusion on its top that engages with the striker, and is optionally held forwards by the first spring, thus also holding the trigger forwards. The sear also needs to be shaped such that it physically cannot rotate forwards past a certain point, as its top protrusion prevents the striker from moving against the second spring's force.

The striker, as noted, is held in place by the sear. The second spring is forcing the striker such that when the sear releases, it either rotates or slides forwards at significant speed. A clamp in the striker is holding a piece of flint or pyrite in place, such that the striker's motion will scrape it across the iron frizzen, producing sparks. The frizzen is both a lid for a small container of black powder over the touch-hole, and has an angled striking surface such that the striker's motion will force it open in the process of scraping sparks. The third spring engages with a notch on the frizzen's pivot, holding it in either the open or closed position as needed.

The end result is that the user of a friction-ignited gun can have a shot ready to go for quite a while before they need to use it, protected from all manner of weather conditions, and able to be shot at a moment's notice. Though there is some chance of malfunction, such as the priming charge of black powder failing to ignite the main charge, for whatever reason.

Electrical ignition is considerably more reliable, though it will require a magnet and a fair bit of copper wire that's been insulated with beeswax or some kind of resin. It also needs springs, though only two of them.

The idea here is that when a magnet is moved near metal, it induces electrical currents in said metal. So mount the magnet inside a wheel, and attach a coiled spring to said wheel. The idea is that when the sear is pulled away by the trigger, the coiled spring rapidly spins the wheel back to its normal position; angled teeth around the edge of the wheel allow it to be wound in one direction with the trigger engaged, thus preparing it to spin. Now, wind insulated copper wire around this spinning thing in such a way that it won't spin when the trigger is pulled. Stick both ends of the wire through the ignition hole, after making sure the tips both don't touch and don't have insulation on them. Now clamp down an iron cover really tightly over the hole, to make sure the blast doesn't dislodge the wire. Also to reduce gas leakage. Maybe fill the remaining gap with insulating resin also.

The idea is that when the magnet spins, it forces the electrical balance in the wire's ends off equilibrium, until reaching the point of producing a tiny bolt of lightning, thus igniting the black powder. You can include a safety switch as well; a section of the wire that can be pivoted into and out of contact with one of the ends leading to the ignition hole, preventing accidental firing.

Regarding reloading speed, there's an easy way, a medium way, and a hard way, roughly increasing in effectiveness as the difficulty goes up. The easy way is to make paper cartridges; a pre-measured quantity of gunpowder and bullet, wrapped in paper. Pour the powder into the tube and maybe the flashpan for a friction gun, then ram the bullet down the tube with the paper serving as wadding to keep it in place. This removes much guesswork and fiddling from the process of reloading in a hurry.

The medium way is to make a breechloader; make the back of the gun open, with a steel block that you can slide or rotate to open or close it using a lever on the back of the gun. Open it up, shove a paper cartridge in the back bullet-first, tear the cartridge open to expose the powder, close the back of the gun, and it's ready to shoot. Much fiddling is required to get a good seal between the tube and the block, which you need to avoid a dramatic decrease in shooting power.

The hard way is metal cartridges. They're exactly what they sound like: a metal tube containing powder and bullet that you stick in the back of the gun. The cartridge being inside the tube means they're quite good at forcing the gas from firing to propel the bullet instead of leaking, and you don't need to fiddle with the cartridge during combat at all aside from taking them out and putting fresh ones in.

For friction-lit and electrical guns, your best bet to get multiple shots per reload is to make the cartridge tube long, containing multiple charges of gunpowder and bullets stacked on top of each other. You don't need to insert the whole tube into the gun's breech, only the front part. For friction guns you either need a separate ignition system for each shot, or make it so the whole trigger system can be slid forwards and backwards to align with the touch-holes. For electrical guns, just add wiring leading to each touch-hole, and add more possible connections for the safety switch, allowing the shooter to select their shot as needed.

Guns can also be scaled up far beyond what a single person can carry, needing wheeled conveyances or boats to move them around. These huge guns are useful for smashing fortifications, destroying ships, or possibly killing giant monsters.
 
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As far as I can see, you missed some pretty important details. Namely, to produce enough voltage for a spark generator, you need a transformer between your alternator and the spark gap. Using a hair-thin steel wire as a heating element will give you an igniter without need for a transformer, but a small transformer is pretty easy to make anyways.

Essentially, have an iron square ring with your alternator wire wrapped around one side of it to make a magnet, and then wrap your load wire around the other side of the ring. The AC voltage will be multiplied by the ratio of wire turns between the input and output. So 10 turns on the alternator and 100 turns on the load will multiply the voltage by 10, and divide amperage by 10. The converse is true, you can multiply the amperage and divide the voltage by using the transformer the other way around, which is useful for making arc welders and spot welders, which are usually like 3 volts and hundreds of amps.

The other thing is that oval rifling is way better for black powder weapons. Powder fouling builds up in the grooves of normal rifling. You can make oval rifling pretty easily by making a hardened steel suage block with the spiraling oval profile, and forcing/hammering it down the softened heated barrel with a stiff rod. As there are no grooves for powder fouling to get stuck in, it stays way cleaner than normal rifling.

I can explain the self loading bullet concept if you want, that I explained earlier.

Also, I'd be willing to put together a post on lead azide. Lead azide is made with lead acetate (lead and vinegar) mixed with sodium azide (sodium nitrate and ammonium chloride (ammonia and hydrochloric acid from electrolysis of seawater) heated as mixed powders in a closed pot at 200-250C) in an aqueous solution. The white lead azide crystals precipitate out of solution. the solution should be continuously mixed to avoid the formation of long needle crystals, you want a powder.

Lead azide is used along with lead styphnate in most modern primers, but it works fine by itself, and is way easier to handle and not corrosive like fulminated mercury.

That will allow for the use of the self-loading bullet paper cartridge I described, using the percussion caps in the form of the primer compound glued between two small squares of paper.

Edit: I also think your description of the mechanical parts of the hammer/striker system need serious reworking, as I found it hard to follow and understand, even though I know how it works already. You should probably stick to hammer systems anyway, as they don't have coil springs yet, only leaf springs.

I have to go do stuff rn, I'll come back later with more constructive criticism on how exactly to rework it.

edit2:
Here is a detailed description of the lockwork of a flintlock:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLneNO5D2e8

You really need a half-cock position for loading.
 
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We are dealing with primitive people. They probably don't even have a word for the color blue. Even IRL their are tribes that do not see a difference between a red rose and the color of the sky.
 
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We are dealing with primitive people. They probably don't even have a word for the color blue. Even IRL their are tribes that do not see a difference between a red rose and the color of the sky.

Bianca's native language is better developed (and I imagine that her presence already modified mortal language/s to be more complex). Previous magical "civilization" was seriously weird, had no governments and magic instead of literally everything (including clothes), but probably had word for blue.

L: We told Bianca how to make it turn 1.

She never tried to make it.
 
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L: Gunpost draft updated. @Lincolnator have I fixed most of your complaints? Also yes please provide lead azide instructions, including how to make vinegar.
 
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L: Gunpost draft updated. @Lincolnator have I fixed most of your complaints? Also yes please provide lead azide instructions, including how to make vinegar.
It's certainly better, but you need to make the differences between the notches clear: the half cock notch needs to be narrow to hold the thin tip of the sear, and the cocked notch is more like a step the tip of the sear can slide off of, and the last notch being a wide, large surface to serve as a total backstop for the rotation of the hammer.

There are some things that you need to keep in mind for the description: they are going to be using the tools I described in my tools post, files, saws, chisels, punches, spade drills, reamers and whitworth method flattened blocks for straightedges and squares. So you have to describe how to use the tools they have to make the things you describe, using the saw to cut the half-cock notch, how to use jigs in the clamp to get the relative sizes of all the curves of the tumbler right, etc. Little details like how the half cock notch has to be closer to the pivot axis than the full cock notch to avoid the sear catching on it when firing, That the tip of the sear needs to be thin and narrow to fit in the half-cock notch, things like that.

I'm going to be posting my tools post next turn.


For the electrical ignition, the iron wire needs to be hair-thin to have the resistance and heating needed for ignition. This does have the disadvantage of likely damaging the wire upon firing, and requiring new igniters for every shot.

The larger problem is the lack of descriptions on how the magnet is made, and its polarity. That and a lack of description as to the winding pattern of the alternator, which is just as important. If they aren't pointing the right way, you aren't getting current.

The magnetic field has to move perpendicular to the wire to generate a current in a single Direction now in order to make direct current you need what is called a commutator on the axis of the motor, which essentially mechanically rectifies the alternating current generated by the motor even in the case of the DC motor. For an alternator you don't need a commutator which commutators always involve an electrical connection to the spinning part of the motor in order to have that rectification. This is usually accomplished with conductive brushes acting as the sliding electrical connection, which has separate wirings based on where in the rotation the rotor is, to switch directions of current so they current goes one way.

Alternators generate AC by just not having a rectifier or commutator. They are a rotating magnetic field exposed to wire coils, and the changing polarity of the field from the perspective of any one wire goes back and forth.

This is why the winding geometry is so important, if they aren't aligned with the geometry of the spinning magnet, some of the coils will be generating current in opposite directions and just make heat.

The simplest alternator is having one circular loop that is around a dipole magnet, with north on one side and south on the other side of the axis of rotation, and the plane of the loop needs to be perpendicular to the plane of the rotating magnet.



The loop can be coiled many times in a circle, like the last image, to make it practical. Of course this design is the easiest to understand, not the best performing, as most of the magnets travel is not near a wire. But, this doesn't require any complex spacing to make work, so long as the magnets poles are opposite one another it will work.

You also need a strong magnet for any of this to work in the first place, which is a challenge in and of itself. You need high amperage DC current to make magnets. So you need electrical infrastructure before anything else can happen.

That is not to say we won't have some, I'm gonna work on that front in the context of electrochemistry and power transmission for machine tools like lathes and drills, and arc torches and arc welding.

I really need to put together a basic electronics post that thoroughly explains all of this.

It is probably easier to just use a battery. There are practical primitive batteries that aren't shit and have little or no self-discharge, metal-air batteries come to mind, bit I will look into what options we have there.
 
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It's certainly better, but you need to make the differences between the notches clear: the half cock notch needs to be narrow to hold the thin tip of the sear, and the cocked notch is more like a step the tip of the sear can slide off of, and the last notch being a wide, large surface to serve as a total backstop for the rotation of the hammer.

There are some things that you need to keep in mind for the description: they are going to be using the tools I described in my tools post, files, saws, chisels, punches, spade drills, reamers and whitworth method flattened blocks for straightedges and squares. So you have to describe how to use the tools they have to make the things you describe, using the saw to cut the half-cock notch, how to use jigs in the clamp to get the relative sizes of all the curves of the tumbler right, etc. Little details like how the half cock notch has to be closer to the pivot axis than the full cock notch to avoid the sear catching on it when firing, things like that.


For the electrical ignition, the iron wire needs to be hair-thin to have the resistance and heating needed for ignition. This does have the disadvantage of likely damaging the wire upon firing, and requiring new igniters for every shot.

The larger problem is the lack of descriptions on how the magnet is made, and its polarity. That and a lack of description as to the winding pattern of the alternator, which is just as important. If they aren't pointing the right way, you aren't getting current.

The magnetic field has to move perpendicular to the wire to generate a current in a single Direction now in order to make direct current you need what is called a commutator on the axis of the motor, which essentially mechanically rectifies the alternating current generated by the motor even in the case of the DC motor. For an alternator you don't need a commutator which commutators always involve an electrical connection to the spinning part of the motor in order to have that rectification. This is usually accomplished with conductive brushes acting as the sliding electrical connection, which has separate wirings based on where in the rotation the rotor is, to switch directions of current so they current goes one way.

Alternators generate AC by just not having a rectifier or commutator. They are a rotating magnetic field exposed to wire coils, and the changing polarity of the field from the perspective of any one wire goes back and forth.

This is why the winding geometry is so important, if they aren't aligned with the geometry of the spinning magnet, some of the coils will be generating current in opposite directions and just make heat.

The simplest alternator is having one circular loop that is around a dipole magnet, with north on one side and south on the other side of the axis of rotation, and the plane of the loop needs to be perpendicular to the plane of the rotating magnet.



The loop can be coiled many times in a circle, like the last image, to make it practical. Of course this design is the easiest to understand, not the best performing, as most of the magnets travel is not near a wire. But, this doesn't require any complex spacing to make work, so long as the magnets poles are opposite one another it will work.

You also need a strong magnet for any of this to work in the first place, which is a challenge in and of itself. You need high amperage DC current to make magnets. So you need electrical infrastructure before anything else can happen.

That is not to say we won't have some, I'm gonna work on that front in the context of electrochemistry and power transmission for machine tools like lathes and drills.

I really need to put together a basic electronics post that thoroughly explains all of this.
C: We'd gladly appreciate you covering those gaps. Especially since we ran out of words.

C: Also, there's a cheat for making magnets without pre-existing electrical infrastructure: lightning
 
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Are you sure that your tool post was included?
It was not, I am going to be posting it next turn.

C: We'd gladly appreciate you covering those gaps. Especially since we ran out of words.

C: Also, there's a cheat for making magnets without pre-existing electrical infrastructure: lightning
Ah yes, the doctor stone method.

It is probably best to push out the electrical methods and percussion methods to beyond 2k words, and add as good of description as you can of the flintlock into the 2k words. That is what I did for my math post last turn.

Then you can reference my electronics post for how to generate the sparks, and also reference it for the lead azide from my industrial electrochemistry post.
 
It was not, I am going to be posting it next turn.


Ah yes, the doctor stone method.

It is probably best to push out the electrical methods and percussion methods to beyond 2k words, and add as good of description as you can of the flintlock into the 2k words. That is what I did for my math post last turn.

Then you can reference my electronics post for how to generate the sparks, and also reference it for the lead azide from my industrial electrochemistry post.
J: Flintlock update applied. Along with some more detail about options for flintlock repeaters.

P: We just can't seem to make up our mind here. Still, jumping straight to minie balls is a great improvement.
 
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As always the thing that will have the biggest impact is better farming technology. It is the most important thing we can develop. The more efficient farming is, the more people can fight, research, mine, build etc.

If someone could explain how make a farm horse harness that would be amazing, those massively improved the work a horse can do.
 
As always the thing that will have the biggest impact is better farming technology. It is the most important thing we can develop. The more efficient farming is, the more people can fight, research, mine, build etc.

If someone could explain how make a farm horse harness that would be amazing, those massively improved the work a horse can do.
horses are not yet demoesticated
 
The Quickening. I sense it. Force and air. Spirit embroiled. Confluence. Cacaphony!



Throw the stones, read the runes, feel the power, draw down the moon
Rowan, Oak and Hawthorn tree, in the scrying bowl we 𝕤̛̖̗̘̍̎̄̅̕𝕖̖̗̘̙̍̎̕𝕖̛̖̗̘̙̍̎̀́̕
Fire, water, earth and air, this ancient wisdom that we share
 
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C: Updated the gunpost draft again. Namely, included a reminder of how to make paper. Including waxed paper.
 
A radical thought. Could we try to avoid evils of animal domestication? Focus 99% on plants?

Many players push for shiny "progress" instead of like thinking about alternative healthy and less harmful ways

Like OK... domesticate perhaps 1 animal like horse for work... but refrain from pigs (unhealthy disease source) and food uses. Try to embrace vegetarian ways early??

south america had only llama and they were fine with their llama

Is there a need to copy all western mistakes?
 
Also meat is just really really good for growth, especially pre-modern agriculture. There's a reason why people with diets rich in protein (generally meat) grow far larger than those without. Getting the same amount of protein through solely plants/mushrooms is hard.
 
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