Tabletop . . . Table

What do you mean by "tabletop" as opposed to "complete piece of furniture"?

There's not much to a table besides the top and the legs. And the legs aren't the hard part, generally.

Yes but gaming tabletops tend to be somewhat specialized. Even without the option of a monitor. Which I consider merely a nice to have and not a necessity.

That said it seems like something you could flat pack ikea style.
 
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Update.

I is woodburning now.



Very slow going and of crude. I suspect this will take my freetime through to next week.

Part of my reason for sticking with a relatively minimal design and the exposed dowel work is to give this table a sense of roughness that will help to hide the limits of my crafting ability.

I want this to look like it belongs in the lodge of someone named 'Bjorn'.
 
That looks nice, but you are more patient than me. I've tried woodburning a couple times, on much smaller scale, and did not get far.
 


If you're wondering why I post with the completion of each board section rather than when it is finished. That would be because each board has felt like an investment of time worth of celebration given that my pyrograph stylus is basically a jumped up soldering iron.

Mind you this was entirely unnecessary and like many of the features I have added to this table the reason for this thread's lone tag. :V
 


Fun fact. When using a wood burning stylus you are advised to allow the tip to cool before changing.

I thought this was to prevent burns. Mostly it's because at wood burn temps the metal will be substantially weakened and the threaded bit can break inside the probe . . .

Anyways, managed to drill out the broken tip and finish with the general purpose tip.

Now to find some other way to torture myself.
 


I like the color. But it's looking a bit blotchy in spots. Wonder if I can spot stain those or should just let it even out as it dries.
 
As someone with experience with stain jobs, wait for it to dry, give it a good buffing with steel wool, and then apply another layer.

Wood doesn't absorb evenly, so it'll look different when it's had time to soak in.
 
As someone with experience with stain jobs, wait for it to dry, give it a good buffing with steel wool, and then apply another layer.

Wood doesn't absorb evenly, so it'll look different when it's had time to soak in.

Yeah, that figures.

Also, it looked better given some more time to dry.

The tricky thing with stain seems to be that what an experienced person means when they say 'wipe away the excess stain' is not quite the same as what the average person is going to take it to mean.

- Pro - 'gently remove standing puddles on the board, allow the remaining stain to dry'

- Novice - 'wipe the board dry'
 
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So I put second coat on and its drying. No picture till its dry cause the sheen messes with my phones color balance. But overall, I think it looks promising.

Better than it probably warrants being made from nothing but pine and douglas fir and given how much patch up I had to do with wood putty given the crap boards at the home store. So theres simply always going to be some discolored where the plastice wood has mixed in the pores.
 
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As someone with experience with stain jobs, wait for it to dry, give it a good buffing with steel wool, and then apply another layer.

A light buffing also seems to even out the sheen and clear any gummed up resin residue.

I assume I'll want to do this before applying the sealant as well?
 
Yeah, you want the surface to be clean before you seal it.

The buffing does a few things that are helpful. Cleaning up any excess surface stain that pooled is one of them.

Another thing is removing fuzziness from the wood. Wood is made of lots of little fibers, and when you sand the surface, you cut those fibers and mash them flat. When the wood gets wet, with, for instance, stain or varnish, the mashed-flat fibers curl back up a little. That makes the wood less smooth to the touch, and also makes it unevenly glossy to the eye. Buffing with 0000 steel wool or burnishing with wood shavings takes the curled-up fibers off again without cutting anything else and producing new fuzzies.

My sanding process usually to sand through various grits until I get the wood where I want it, then take a wet rag and lightly dampen the wood surface to raise the fuzz, then buff with steel wool, then apply finish, then buff again, then apply finish again, then buff again. You could keep going, but after two applications the wood has probably absorbed everything it's going to absorb. Then, if you're using a polyurethane sealant or something, apply that.

I don't use sealers very much, but you probably need it for a table where people are going to set drinks.
 
I don't use sealers very much, but you probably need it for a table where people are going to set drinks.

Drinks and food. Plus this is sitting out in a garage so just having it sealed up some against changes in humidity and the normal dust of a garage space seems prudent.

Edit : Honestly, if I have any sealer let over after doing the top and legs I'm just going to flip the table over and cut the under side too. I don't have any other projects planned and poly, doesn't go bad, but it does get gritty after it's been opened to air a few times so I might as well use it all and encapsulate this sucker.
 
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Also looks like I really cant avoid some serious blotchiness on the arm resrs. I just had to use way too much plastic wood to repair the jank boards I had.
 
This looks like you are staining both the top and bottom surfaces of the "table surface" that fits over the "gaming surface" ? Won't the stain and sealant protect the wood and extend the life of the table?

It's not wrong, it's just a huge pain in the ass since I have to stain one side, polish, stain again, polish, then flip and do the other side plus do all the edges. Then I have to do the sealant.

Oh, and did I mention that the drying times they put on the cans are filthy lies? Cuz they are.

Though sealant is an interesting thing. Technically it doesn't provide a ton of physical protection. It offers some. But it's main use is mediating the movement of moisture between the wood and its surroundings.
 
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